3D Printing Material Properties — Complete Reference Table
This page is your at-a-glance reference for comparing every major 3D printing material. Whether you are choosing between filament types or deciding between filament and resin, the tables below cover print temperatures, heat resistance, strength, flexibility, ease of use, and typical pricing — all in one place.
Filament Material Properties
All temperatures in degrees Celsius. Prices are approximate retail ranges per kilogram as of early 2026.
| Material | Print Temp (C) | Bed Temp (C) | Heat Resist. (C) | Tensile Strength | Flexibility | Ease of Printing | Enclosure Needed | Typical Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 190–220 | 50–60 | ~60 | High | Low (brittle) | Very Easy | No | $15–25/kg |
| PLA+ | 200–230 | 50–60 | ~65 | High | Medium | Easy | No | $18–28/kg |
| PETG | 220–250 | 70–85 | ~80 | Medium–High | Medium | Easy | No | $18–30/kg |
| ABS | 220–250 | 95–110 | ~100 | Medium | Medium–High | Difficult | Yes | $18–30/kg |
| ASA | 235–260 | 95–110 | ~100 | Medium | Medium–High | Difficult | Yes | $25–40/kg |
| TPU | 210–230 | 30–60 | ~80 | Low | Very High | Moderate | No | $20–35/kg |
| Nylon | 240–270 | 70–90 | ~110 | High | High | Difficult | Yes | $30–50/kg |
| PC | 260–300 | 100–120 | ~140 | Very High | Medium | Very Difficult | Yes | $35–60/kg |
Resin Type Properties
Resin properties vary significantly by brand and formulation. These ranges reflect typical values for MSLA/LCD printers. Prices are per liter.
| Resin Type | Cure Time | Hardness | Flexibility | Detail Quality | Safety | Typical Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Standard | Fast | High | Low | Excellent | Moderate (VOCs, gloves required) | $25–40/L |
| ABS-Like | Moderate | High | Medium | Good | Moderate (VOCs, gloves required) | $30–50/L |
| Water-Washable | Fast | Medium–High | Low | Good | Lower risk (water wash) | $30–45/L |
| Flexible | Moderate | Low | Very High | Moderate | Moderate (VOCs, gloves required) | $40–60/L |
| High-Temp | Slow | Very High | Low | Good | Moderate (VOCs, gloves required) | $50–80/L |
| Plant-Based | Fast | Medium–High | Low | Good | Lower risk (bio-based) | $35–55/L |
Material Guide: Best Use Cases
PLA (Polylactic Acid)
PLA is the default starting material for almost every 3D printing beginner, and for good reason. It prints easily on any printer, requires no enclosure, and produces minimal fumes. Best used for prototypes, decorative prints, display models, miniatures, and anything that will stay indoors at room temperature.
The main trade-off is brittleness and low heat resistance (~60 C). A PLA print left on a car dashboard in summer will warp. For anything that needs to survive heat or repeated impact, consider PETG, ABS, or PLA+.
PLA+ (PLA Plus)
PLA+ is a modified PLA blend that adds toughening agents to reduce brittleness and improve layer adhesion. It prints nearly as easily as standard PLA and costs only a few dollars more per kilogram. Best used as a direct upgrade from PLA for parts that need a little more durability — tool holders, phone stands, brackets, and light-duty functional components.
PLA+ still cannot match ABS or PETG for heat resistance or impact toughness, but for most everyday functional prints where standard PLA feels too fragile, PLA+ hits a good middle ground without any added printing difficulty.
PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)
PETG sits between PLA and ABS in terms of properties, and it is the most versatile all-around filament for intermediate users. It handles temperatures up to ~80 C, resists moisture, has decent impact resistance, and requires no enclosure. Best used for food-safe containers (when printed hygienically), mechanical parts, outdoor items in mild climates, and anything where PLA's brittleness is a problem but ABS is overkill.
The main trade-offs are stringing (PETG is stringy by nature and requires tuned retraction settings) and its tendency to bond aggressively to PEI print surfaces if overcooked. Always use a release agent like glue stick on PEI when printing PETG.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
ABS is the classic engineering filament with high heat resistance (~100 C), good impact toughness, and the unique ability to be smoothed with acetone vapor for near-injection-molded surface finishes. Best used for automotive parts, enclosures near electronics, mechanical assemblies, and any part that needs to survive high temperatures or significant impact stress.
ABS requires an enclosed printer to prevent warping and releases styrene fumes that require ventilation. It is not recommended for beginners or anyone without an enclosed printer. For most use cases where ABS used to be the default, ASA or PETG now offer a better trade-off.
ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate)
ASA is the outdoor-rated version of ABS. It matches ABS on heat resistance and impact toughness while adding significantly better UV stability — ASA prints hold their color and mechanical properties far longer under direct sunlight. Best used for anything mounted outdoors: garden fixtures, automotive trim, camera mounts, antenna brackets, and weatherproof enclosures.
ASA has the same printing difficulty as ABS — it warps without an enclosure and requires ventilation for fumes. If you have an enclosed printer and need UV-resistant parts, ASA is a straight upgrade over ABS. Expect to pay a modest premium over ABS pricing.
TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane)
TPU is the go-to flexible filament. It is rubber-like, highly elastic, and can be compressed and stretched repeatedly without cracking or breaking. Best used for phone cases, gaskets, seals, cable management clips, wheels and tires for RC vehicles, grips, and any part that needs to flex or absorb vibration.
TPU requires careful print settings — slow speeds and a direct-drive extruder deliver the best results. Bowden setups can print TPU but are more prone to clogs and inconsistent extrusion with flexible materials. Shore hardness (95A is common, 87A is softer) is the key spec to check when buying TPU.
Nylon (Polyamide / PA)
Nylon offers an outstanding combination of tensile strength, impact toughness, and heat resistance (~110 C), making it one of the best engineering filaments for demanding functional parts. Best used for gears, hinges, living hinges, load-bearing brackets, and any part that needs to be both strong and somewhat flexible without breaking under stress.
Nylon is highly hygroscopic — it absorbs moisture from the air rapidly, which leads to stringing, bubbling, and weak layer adhesion if the filament is not kept dry. Always store Nylon in an airtight container with desiccant, and dry it before printing if it has been exposed to air. An enclosure and high bed temperatures are required for reliable results.
PC (Polycarbonate)
Polycarbonate is the strongest common FDM filament, with exceptional tensile strength, very high heat resistance (~140 C), and excellent impact resistance. Best used for structural components, safety-critical parts, high-temperature applications, and anything that needs to withstand extreme mechanical or thermal stress.
PC is genuinely difficult to print. It requires print temperatures above 260 C (an all-metal hotend is a must), bed temperatures of 100-120 C, a fully enclosed chamber, and aggressive adhesion strategies to prevent warping. Moisture absorption is also a concern. PC rewards an experienced user with a well-dialed printer, but is not worth attempting without the right hardware.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the easiest filament to print?
PLA is by far the easiest filament to print. It adheres well to almost any bed surface, does not warp under normal room-temperature conditions, requires no enclosure, and has a wide, forgiving temperature window. PLA+ offers a small improvement in toughness with the same ease of printing. If you are new to 3D printing, start with PLA.
What's the strongest filament?
It depends on what "strong" means. For raw tensile strength and rigidity, Polycarbonate (PC) is the strongest common filament, followed by Nylon. For impact resistance and toughness, Nylon and ABS outperform brittle materials like PLA. For most functional parts that need a balance of stiffness and durability, Nylon PA12 is a practical top choice. PC is stronger but extremely difficult to print reliably.
Which filament is best for outdoor use?
ASA is the best common filament for outdoor use. It was specifically engineered as a UV-stable alternative to ABS and handles prolonged sun and weather exposure without significant degradation. PETG is a reasonable second choice for mild outdoor conditions. ABS degrades in UV over time. PLA is the worst choice for outdoor use — it softens around 60 C (easily exceeded in direct sun), absorbs moisture, and discolors quickly.
Is resin stronger than filament?
Generally no. Standard and ABS-like resins are harder and produce finer detail than most filaments, but they are also more brittle — they crack and shatter more easily under sudden impact. Filaments like Nylon, PC, and ABS have far better impact resistance and toughness than resin. That said, high-temp resins outperform most filaments on heat resistance, and flexible resins can match TPU elasticity. Choose resin for detail and surface quality, not for structural toughness.
Ready to buy? Compare live prices across 12+ retailers.
SpoolPrices tracks filament and resin prices in real time, normalized to $/kg and $/L so you can find the true best deal — not just the lowest sticker price on a small spool.